At 2 a.m. on May 21, 2024, the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team launched their final push towards the summit of Mount Everest. After overcoming numerous challenges, all team members successfully reached the summit, sending back the world’s first ultrasound images and EEG data from the top of the world. They measured the peak of the world with their footsteps and explored the limits of life through science.
What kind of strength supports them? What untold stories did they experience on their journey to challenge the limits? Let us delve into the BGI Everest Scientific Expedition and listen to the voices of “The Summit Seekers."
The following interview is with Cao Jun, Team Leader of the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team; Ma Xiao, Climbing Leader of the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team; and team members Liu Huanhuan, Tenzin Wangmo, Li Yanlin, and Zhou Qianlong.
“Through the Mount Everest scientific research project, we aim to enable more people to approach the plateau more smoothly, safely, and comfortably.”
Q: Besides climbing, the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team also has scientific research goals for this Everest scientific research expedition. Could you introduce the specific objectives of this research task and the potential impact it might have?
Liu Huanhuan (Associate Researcher in Biotechnology, BGI-Research, responsible for collecting scientific samples in this Everest scientific research expedition):
In this Everest scientific research expedition, we collected data on the physiological indicators, EEG, cardiopulmonary ultrasound, skin microbiome, eye-movement test, and ophthalmoscopy of team members at different altitudes.
We hope to address these questions through the expedition, analyzing the physiological mechanisms of human adaptation in plateau regions. Additionally, we aim to reduce altitude sickness as much as possible, allowing more people to approach nature, the snow-capped mountains, and pursue their interests more smoothly, safely, and comfortably.
Q: How does the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team ensure the safety of their climbs while also successfully conducting scientific research? What training and preparation were done beforehand?
Cao Jun (CEO of SGI, Team Leader of the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team, and he has reached the summit of Everest and both the North and South Poles):
The Everest scientific research expedition has taken over two years from initiation to the present. Regarding sample collection, such as blood samples, we needed to consider the overall design of blood collection and separation, the procedures for sampling personnel, and the equipment, consumables, and communication conditions required on the mountain. We divided the process into several stages, from Muztagh Ata to Cho Oyu, and only after several high-altitude snow mountain climbing field exercises did, we streamline the overall scientific research process.
For physical training, the team started intensive physical training at the end of last year, including gym workouts and field training at the BGI Center. Wang Jian, Chairman and Co-Founder of BGI Group, and the team often climbed two mountains in one day. Additionally, BGI's hypobaric oxygen chamber training involved arranging 6 to 8 pre-adaptation sessions for team members before departure, allowing them to train their physical fitness in a simulated environment.
Moreover, we used scientific training methods for targeted individual training. For example, for one of our team members, Li Yanlin, we found that her lung capacity was low, and her lung ventilation ability was weak, which is disadvantageous for climbing. So we created a private training plan for her, including daily balloon blowing and wearing a resistance breathing mask. After a month of muscle-strengthening training, her lung capacity increased from 2500ml to 4000ml. There are many such training methods, including functional training, muscle endurance, and core strength, which constitute a systematic preparation process.
“As the sun slowly rose, I realized that we were surrounded by cliffs.”
Q: You set off for the summit at 2 a.m. on May 21. What was the environment like at that time?
Zhou Qianlong (Graduate Student at China University of Geosciences, Highland Photographer, SGI):
On the day we set out for the summit, it was 2 a.m., so we could only see a little bit of the ground in front of us with our headlamps; everything in the distance was invisible. However, as the sun slowly rose and the light gradually brightened, I realized that the section between the First Step and the Second Step was basically a horizontal crossing, with a sheer wall on the left and a cliff on the right. At that moment, it looked quite terrifying.
“At the moment of reaching the summit, my thought was to quickly complete my scientific tasks.”
Q: How did you feel when you reached the summit? What did you do at the peak?
Tenzin Wangmo (The first summiteer of the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team):
I was the first to reach the summit as part of the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team. When I reached the summit, the day was just getting bright. Normally, I might have cried with excitement or laughed with joy like others, but in fact, at that moment, my only thought was to quickly complete my scientific tasks. At 8000 meters, it's an extreme environment. I stayed up there for two hours, over an hour of which was spent without supplemental oxygen. The main purpose was to test my heart rate and cardiopulmonary condition under extreme oxygen deprivation, as well as to observe whether my tinnitus symptoms were pronounced.
Ma Xiao (COO of SGI, Climbing Leader of the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team, and this is his second ascent of Mount Everest):
The first thing I did when I got up there was to conduct an EEG test. After completing mine, I performed the test on Wang Jian. At that time, Lyu Zhonglin, Wang Jian, and I had all shaved our heads because the EEG equipment has 32 contact points, and it's difficult to connect them properly if you have a lot of hair. Fortunately, the weather was excellent when we went up, so we didn't need to wear hats or gloves, and we managed to complete all the work.
“Seeing the sun slowly rise from the clouds was incredibly awe-inspiring.”
Q: Were there any unforgettable or interesting experiences during the climbing and research process?
Liu Huanhuan: During the latter half of the ascent, I turned around and stood in awe, watching the sun slowly rise from the clouds. It was incredibly stunning! This was the first time I ever felt something like this. I also remember how, during the climb, our team encouraged and helped each other, and this team spirit moved me deeply. Additionally, at around 8,800 meters, Wang keenly spotted something resembling the fossils he had seen during his expedition in the Mariana Trench, speculating that it might be related to the origin of life. It’s quite fascinating to see similar phenomena both 8,000 meters above sea level and 10,000 meters below.
Qianlong Zhou: During one of our training sessions, we discovered that Wang had a huge blister on his foot. He didn't mention it at all during the training, possibly because he didn't want to slow us down. It wasn't until the training was almost over that he told us about it. Even though Wang is already 70 years old, he not only didn't hold us back during the Mount Everest climb, but with the support of SGI's oxygen product, he was able to keep up with the team quite well.
Li Yanlin (Administrative Specialist, BGI Group Board Office):
Once, when we were training from the 5800-meter camp to 6500 meters, there was a snowstorm. I am quite sensitive to the cold and wasn’t dressed warmly enough that day, so I couldn’t warm up my body the whole way. Near the end, I couldn’t move anymore and squatted on the ground crying. At that time, Yu Guoming, expert advisor of SGI, helped find a guide to walk me slowly. Later, when we reached a rest point, Wangmo took off one of her outer pants and gave them to me to wear.
“I believe there are two core reasons: one is having clear goals, and the other is that BGI's team has been trained through practical experience.”
Q: The BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team not only successfully reached the summit but also set a new record for the oldest Chinese climber to summit Everest and created the world's first ultrasound images and EEG data from the summit. Why do you think the BGI Scientific Mountaineering Team was able to accomplish these feats?
Cao Jun: I believe there are two core reasons: one is having clear goals, and the other is that BGI's team has been trained through practical experience.
First, when the Everest expedition began, the goal was already set. We were not just climbing, but also aiming for breakthroughs in both mountaineering and scientific research. This is certainly the most important aspect; you have to set the goal in order to put in your best effort to achieve it.
Second, this type of determination is part of BGI's history and culture. Over the years, we have accumulated teamwork skills that allow us to persevere in extreme environments.
“Everyone has their own Everest to climb in their hearts.”
Q: If there is a "spirit of climbing," what do you think is its essence?
Zhou Qianlong: It should be a spirit of positivity, the courage to explore, and having one's own ideals. A person with this spirit knows what they want to pursue and what goals they aim to achieve. They proactively move towards these goals and continuously explore new and good things along the way.
Li Yanlin: I think this term represents a challenge. The "spirit of climbing" doesn't necessarily have to be reflected in actual mountaineering, nor does it have to be possessed only by those who have made significant achievements. Anyone who strives to push their limits, challenge themselves, and live life to the fullest can embody this spirit. Everyone has their own Everest to climb in their hearts.